Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Shirdi

I am not particularly religious but spiritual on a certain level. Shirdi has been one religious shrine that has been on top of my list for always. I had heard all these magical stories of Sai Baba coming to help his followers and things happening that had no explanation and all this made me very curious. I first visited Shirdi when I had given my 10th board exams. I had to visit and offer my prayers for better results, in my case to pass with little more marks than the passing average. I went with my aunt’s and I do not remember what special occasion it was because the temple was fairly less crowded.

We had reached early morning and checked into a shady room, well shady is an understatement though, but that was the only option then. Today you get some fantastic accommodation in Shirdi since the trust has gone into better managed hands. All of us freshened up and I was anticipating a long unwinding que but I was pleasantly surprised. We took our offerings and stood in the waiting area.

After about 10 mins of waiting I was straight in the shrine area. I was thrilled and for the first time in my life I experienced this overwhelming feeling and I had tears in my eyes as I stood in front of the shrine. I felt embarrassed about it tried to hold them back but it was too overwhelming to be held back. I sat there for a good 15 mins without any distraction and was awestruck by the aura and energy that shrine exuded. We went ahead to this other shrine in the temple complex called “Dwarkira Mai” where Sai Baba was supposed to have lived. There is an eternal flame which was lit when Sai Baba took Samadhi. There is also a neem or eucalyptus tree in the premises and the strangest part is the leaves are sweet, or rather not bitter. Very strange and you gotta taste it to believe it.

The premise then was totally different from what it is today. I could actually manage to get Darshan a second time when my aunt lost a one of her slipper from the pair (it actually happened, although doesn’t happen anymore) we went back to search for it. That’s when I managed to sneak in and nobody stopped me. It can’t be possible now since the entire management has changed and the place has become better managed and slightly commercial. Now you should consider yourself lucky if you can manage even one time decent darshan.

The second time I went was a disaster trip. I can’t complain but that can’t turn the fact around. Some gunk threw my shoes out of the bus and I went looking for it at 6 am and I had to walk bare feet till the hotel room. Some other personal problems happened and I did not know what to do. My aunt said I should not think about it and I did not. Went to the temple complex and had quick darshan but since had an evening bus to catch we sat in the premises all day. It was a very different feeling to be sitting in a temple all day, very calming.

My third trip was with friends. We all drove from Mumbai to Shirdi and like most religious trips have to begin on a wrong note coz God wants to check your endurance and faith, ours was twisted too. our driver was awesomely slow... we had a flat Tyre in the middle of no where and then we took 9 hours for a 5-6 hour journey! But all said and done... it was awesome. We reached at 11, had our first glimpse of Dwarka mai and returned to our rooms. Got p early in the morning to catch the Kaakad aarti at 4am and we did. The experience was so overwhelming. The constant echo of 'mandir ki ghanti' the chants and the calm of the place brought tears to my eyes. The effect is so calming that your mind doesnt know how to react. But then as soon as the aarti got over we had to leave and return to the madness of the city.

I want to go back but haven’t been able to somehow. But surely I will make it soon!

Aurangabad - Daultabad

I confess today I had completely not known and had underestimated the beauty and charm of this city. Aurangabad is the original home of King Aurangzeb. A city that has history in the air it breathes is also host to UNESCO’s one of world heritage sites ‘Ajanta-Ellora caves’. Has some 6 in and out flights connected to Delhi and Mumbai and is also a popular tourist destination. The Japanese have funded Aurangabad to build its airport so that tourists from Japan can connect with Aurangabad.

I had spent time working mostly here and hardly got time to explore Ajanta Ellora but one thing I did here was visit the fantastic Daultabad fort. Now this was and is the only fort which was never won in a battle due to its engineering genius. It still stands undefeated and when you see it you’d know why. Now there are several levels of security around the fort. Let me unveil them one by one.
• The entrance to the main fort is guarded by tall 10-15 ft tall thick walls that run around the fort. This is a long and winding wall which has window like openings for weapons to be placed in.
• If you manage to escape the illusive walls the premise around the Palace was surrounded by barracks that had infantry deployed for any emergency. Elephants and Horses were a part of it
• If you manage to escape that the whole fort is surrounded by a 10ft wide and several feet deep water canyon. I believe it homed alligators and crocodiles that could never let you alive. To get to the door or the fort one had to cross this canal which was a task
• If you managed to still enter the fort was still on top of a hill so one had to climb all the way up with their army which means waste of time and energy. The stairs were deliberately made so huge that it would enervate any hulk out.
• Now if that wasn’t enough the highlight of the fort is the Bhool-Bhulaiyya or a maze that was designed to disorient the enemy and lead him right out of the fort again. The entrances of the fort are so narrow that you would have to enter head first which meant your entire body is helpless and your head would be chopped off from the soldier on the other side.
• The maze is dark with not the tiniest particle of light. The defending soldiers sat inside small openings in the roofs and as soon as the enemy entered the narrow path they would jump from the top or throw fireballs in the dark. The roads were so illusive that if you take on wrong turn you would either fall into the canal outside toppling over a 200ft long tunnel or you’d be killed somewhere.
It is impossible to make it through the maze alone without the help of a guide. Although all the fatal exits are now closed for safety reasons, its best to hire a guide to see the fort. Daultabad is truly an engineering wonder for the time it was built.

Mysore Palace/ Summer Palace

Still staying in Bangalore this place called the Mysore Palace is a dream to see. A portion of it is still lived in by its original heirs and all of whom are adopted sons of the Wadiar hierarchy since he never had a son of his own.

I am not a palace person and I have faint memories of Mysore Palace but the one very important thing is a lift/elevator from very very old days that is still operational. The palace is atleast 5 stories high and perhaps the only one I saw where there was a lift inside the Palace! Very tech friendly kings! Then there were beautiful carvings all over the palace walls, ceilings and furniture that took my breath away. Supreme luxury, extremely big rooms and they had an art gallery of the sculptures and paintings gifted to the king is a must watch!


Summer Palace
By my memory and understanding the summer palace is not very far form Bangalore and hosted mighty Tipu Sultan during summers where he rested with his family. There isn’t much left in this Palace to see but a museum of the Palaces heir’s classics and the most important Tipu Sultans armor and weapons and his Famous Sword!
When you look at the sheer size of the sword its hard to believe a man 5 ft tall which was supposedly how tall Tipu was could have even held this in hand forget about fighting with it! Must pay a visit to check that sword out!

Talkadu

From the north to the south, a little ahead of Bangalore en-route to Mysore is a place most likely to be missed by many and not featured anywhere. We discovered this gem when our driver told us about it and all of us curious cats jumped on to the adventure ride instantly. A place sure to shock you and make you think if such things actually existed ever in history.

Talkadu is off the main road a few kms inside and very hard to locate then without someone who knew where it was. It was an archeological excavation site then and work was still in progress so it wasn’t open to tourists. But who can stop snooping noses like us who are suckers for adventure. The land was rocky and as we walked suddenly there was sand under our feet from nowhere. The guide told us the legend behind Talkadu. The story says that Raja Wadiar was a lazy and indulgent king. He had very little interest in ruling and had given his empire to his wife to handle and before dying asked her to never give it up to the British. Now while the British came to attack, the queen ran with as much as she could gather and cursed the kingdom would turn into sand and the British would never be able to rule it. The legend also says that since Raja Wadiar never had a heir of his own there are said o be hidden treasures around Talkadu if someone finds will be given the Wadiar kingdom.

It is hard to believe the legend but one is forced to after you see the amount of fine beach sand in the middle of nowhere. Only a few temples and courts were exacavated by then and I was completely thrilled about this trip into history. I was actually walking over the entire kingdom that was some 15 ft under sand waiting to be excavated and tell its story. The temples were carved in stone like most other old time monuments but the one interesting piece was the four corners of a temple that had rings dangling that were carved out of one single stone. The strangest is the two rings had no joints and were one single moving piece of stone. One dangled from the corner and the other intertwined in the one stationary ring. There was pottery from that time and the astonishing part was it was painted from both sides! Inside and outside!!! Now every class had different kind of paintings so one could differentiate between the pottery and utensils. The pots were regular mud brown from outside and had blue and ceramic paints inside apparently helped keep water cool for long.

I managed to steal a few invaluable pieces of that pottery which had I retained would have cost millions! But since they were jinxed I had to throw them away as I returned home. We were also actually standing on top of a mint where coins were made and I saw one that was still stuck in the mud that had some Greek face and had something engraved in a language that hailed from the era unknown to me! I loved it and had mentally been teleported to a time zone where I was experiencing how the life must have been then. Talkadu a must see on my list! It will not cost much since there is nothing to consume a day so you are free to carry on with your trip to Mysore.

Fatehpur-Seekhri

After being hypnotized by the Taj Mahal we moved ahead to Fatehpur Sikhri another mesmerizing piece of architecture. As you approach the Buland Darwaza welcomes you like a 60Ft bouncer. The inside was calm and peaceful and some maulvi’s were singing some qalam. Pigeons had made it their home and their flight and fluttering seemed to be dancing to the tunes of the qalam. There is a dargah right in the middle of the courtyard and it belongs to Khwaja Moinuddin Chisti. People tie threads around the Dargah hoping their prayers will be answered and promise to return to untie it when their prayers are fulfilled.

The calmness and serenity around here is very very spiritual. It takes you on a different level all together. I remembered scenes from the movie Pardes which was shot here and felt happy about seeing a place that Shahrukh Khan had shot in. There was something very seductive about Fathepur that haunts me even today after so many years. Agra & Fathepur Sikhri top my list of History lessons into India.

The Taj Mahal

Whatever has been written about this monument is all trash! The monument is actually beggaring description. Nothing in the world can even come close to describing its beauty and magnificence. The Taj Mahal deserves every bit of fame that it has as one of the 7 wonders of the world.

I had seen the Taj Mahal after my board exams. After the stress I underwent for 3 months for the exams I wanted a break so we all drove down to Agra to see the Taj and Fatehpur Sikhri. It was slightly chilly and the drive from Delhi down was pleasant. My first of the Taj sent chills down my spine because of its sheer splendor and we came closer I couldn’t wait to capture it in my eyes. The way to the Taj doesn’t really seem like its leading to a monument of that grandeur but all said and done who pays attention to it! All eyes are set on the colossal entrance of the monument from where you start experiencing Taj. The doorway is massive and leads into a beautiful badi or garden. The centre of the garden is full of fountains and exotic plants around it. In all that beauty all on can see it the pristine white monument in the background that zooms into your face as you walk closer towards it. All I remember is the awesome architecture and outstanding work on the walls of the monument that left me speechless. I kept looking at the walls spellbound and the surroundings faded out of my mind gradually. All I could hear was sufi music from the history that my mind was hallucinating about. Platonic love all around is all that you can sense in this monument. We took off our shoes before entering the monument and I could feel the cold marble under my feet that kind of calmed my nerves as I walked towards the main part of the Taj Mahal which is the maqbara. Both emperor Shahjahan and Mumtaz are supposedly buried there. As I stood against the maqbara I felt immense love infused in me. A feeling that I still don’t know how to describe or explain. All I felt was peace and solitude and the few moments seemed like eternity. I wish I was in love then to have shared the overwhelming experience with my beloved. Just above the maqbara is the infamous tiny whole on the top that trickles water on the hypothetical Shiv-ling underneath. I could not see it though but yes there was a grill between the maqbara from where you could see something under it.

I roamed the corridors and the premises lost in trance and feeling how it must have been to be in so much love to have built this beautiful piece of architecture. As people took pictures of the Taj in various funny poses I looked in amazement thinking pictures can not even half express how beautiful this monument is? I sat down to fill it in my eyes and take it back as a personal picture which only I can recapture when I want. The Taj is truly a symbol of love and something that will stand as the symbol of India forever.

Ganpatipule

An extremely well kept secret of Ratnagiri, Ganpatipule boasts of the coasts most dangerous beaches. The water here is turbulent and the tides erratic. But for people like me who live little on the edge such beaches are paradises.

Luckily for us we did not get accommodation in the hotel so we had to live in a tent which was even more exciting. The tents were located at a juncture where the river met the sea. Two different streams of water mixed so effortlessly I was particularly amazed at this sight. I had never seen the river attenuate itself in the sea.

We had reached Ganpatipule sometime in the afternoon and the whole beach was isolated. It’s a rare sight for a beach not a single human! We were 2 families, my uncle’s and us and we share 2 tents. I cannot resist water so I duped the bags and hit the beach straight knowing the fact that I cannot swim and the beaches were dangerous. Seeing me everybody jumped into the water and we played and soiled ourselves for 5 hours in the salty water. My cousins and I made sand castles at the shore that the sea kept sweeping away and the ladies strolled along the beach while the men showed off their heroic swimming skills. Water tires you out and after 5 hours of ducking in the water we were starving. At that time there was only one shack on the beach that served food. We ate our guts out and then slept like babies till late night. When we came back to the beach for dinner and drinks the sea had become monstrous. The tides were high and had come till the foot of the shack which was on top of a small hill. It hit the rock so hard that droplets would smudge our faces. The winds gushed through the shack whistling and romancing the sea. It was a beautiful night. We were too tired to do anything else for the night so we retired in our tents.

Next morning again I wanted to be a mermaid but we had to visit this famous Ganpatipule temple host to one of the ‘asthavinayak ganpati’s’ in Maharashtra. The Idol is completely natural which means the stone took the shape of Lord Ganesha which is called the ‘swayambhoo’. People walk up bare feet when their wishes are fulfilled. Some go around the temple 108 times at the foothill. We did none of it and did 3 rounds of the temple only and offered our prayers. When we walked back I being the Aquarian had to jump back into the water and that’s exactly what I did. But last nights high tide had not receded yet so water was tumultuous. I was a little scared and I took to the shore where I happily gathered shells. Just then a high tide with tremendous pressure came and swept off sand under my feet and pulled me into the water. I was dragged in the opposite direction as everyone and I freaked out! My uncle came running and pulled me out to the shore. Everybody laughed at me while I removed sand from my ears and coughed out salt water. Lunch was calling and we decided to climb upto this nearby resort which had a proper restaurant. Good simple sea food and we were set to sleep again! Evening we had to push off and al we did for 2 days was fighting the waves! A fantastic weekend getaway if you want to do basically nothing and chill on a hammock sipping your drinks away and reading a book at the beach or just soak up the sun.